Although all cars sold today have electronic fuel injection systems, earlier automobiles had carburetors, which were less efficient. Some other types of small engines, such as lawnmowers or rototillers, still use carburetors. Both the carburetor and the electronic fuel injection system are mechanisms that supply fuel to the engine.
The first fuel injection systems were throttle body fuel injection systems, or single point systems, which had an electrically controlled fuel injector valve. Later, these were replaced by more efficient multi-port fuel injection systems, which have a separate fuel injector for each cylinder. The latter design is better at metering out fuel accurately to each cylinder, and also provides for a faster response.
Although electronic fuel injection is much more complicated than a carburetor, it is much more efficient. The injector is a type of valve that is controlled electronically, which opens and closes and supplies atomized fuel to the engine. It sprays fuel into the intake valves directly in the form of a fine mist. The injector opens and closes rapidly, and the pulse width, or the amount of time it stays open, determines how much fuel goes into the valve. Fuel is supplied to the injectors by a fuel rail.
Several sensors are included as part of the system, to ensure that the correct amount of fuel is delivered to the injectors, and then to the intake valves. These sensors include an engine speed sensor, voltage sensor, coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, and airflow sensor. In addition, a manifold absolute pressure sensor monitors the air pressure in the intake manifold to determine the amount of power being generated.
In a sequential fuel injection system, the injectors open one at a time, in conjunction with the opening of each cylinder. Some other injection systems may open all injectors simultaneously. The sequential option is advantageous because it allows for faster response when the driver makes a rapid change.
The entire injection system is controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU), which functions as a central exchange for information coming in from all the various sensors. The ECU uses this information to determine the length of pulse, spark advance, and other elements. The ECU has several safety features built in, including a fuel cut parameter and top speed parameter.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Fuel Filter Functions
A car's fuel filter is located along the fuel lines, either in the engine compartment or underneath the car by the fuel tank. It is the responsibility of the fuel filter to trap large particles in the fuel in order to prevent them from getting into the engine. Because of the tremendous force behind the up-and-down motion of the engine's pistons, which compress the air-fuel mixture so that it will burn more efficiently, any large particles in the fuel could potentially cause serious damage to the engine. Large particles in the fuel also have the ability to clog fuel injectors, depriving a cylinder of precious fuel and requiring that the injector be cleaned or replaced. Therefore, maintaining a clean fuel filter is imperative to the performance of a car's engine.
Due to the differences in fuel delivery systems, each fuel filter is different. A carbureted engine, which essentially uses the principle of vacuum to suck fuel into the engine, has a fairly low-pressure fuel system. Fuel in a carbureted system passes through fuel-resistant rubber hoses. The fuel filter is made of metal or plastic, with an inlet tube protruding from one end and an outlet tube protruding from the other; a hose is fastened over each end with a circular clamp.
In a car with electronic fuel injection, the injectors squirt fuel into each cylinder. Fuel in this type of system is kept highly pressurized with the help of a pressure regulator. Due to the high-pressure system, the fuel lines must be made of metal. Sometimes the fuel filter in a high-pressure fuel injected system is placed in a low-pressure section, and may be connected to rubber hoses with hose clamps, much like in a carbureted system. However, the fuel filter in a high-pressure fuel injected system is usually equipped with a threaded fitting on each end that screws into the fuel lines on either side.
When changing the fuel filter in your car, there are a couple of precautions you need to take. First, in a car with a high-pressure system, you will need to relieve the pressure before disconnecting the fuel lines from the filter. In most cars, this can be accomplished by removing the fuse that controls the fuel pump, and idling the car until it runs out of gas. Another method that works for some cars is to remove the gas cap. Check your shop manual for more specific instructions.
In order to be sure the fuel filter works correctly, you will also need to take care to place the fuel filter so that the flow travels in the right direction. Most fuel filters mark one side as "in" and the other as "out." The inlet should connect to the fuel lines that come from the fuel tank underneath the back of the car, while the outlet should connect to the fuel lines that can be traced to the engine. Sometimes the fuel filter will have a different kind of fitting on each side, so that it can only be installed in one direction.
Because the fuel filter is one of the key components in protecting the engine from hazardous foreign particles, it is important to replace it regularly. Some mechanics recommend replacing the fuel filter every year during the regularly scheduled tune up, but other mechanics disagree. To be on the safe side, you should replace your fuel filter at least once every two years. Your fuel filter may need more frequent attention if you live in a particularly high-pollution area, or if you put more miles on your car in a year than the average person.
Due to the differences in fuel delivery systems, each fuel filter is different. A carbureted engine, which essentially uses the principle of vacuum to suck fuel into the engine, has a fairly low-pressure fuel system. Fuel in a carbureted system passes through fuel-resistant rubber hoses. The fuel filter is made of metal or plastic, with an inlet tube protruding from one end and an outlet tube protruding from the other; a hose is fastened over each end with a circular clamp.
In a car with electronic fuel injection, the injectors squirt fuel into each cylinder. Fuel in this type of system is kept highly pressurized with the help of a pressure regulator. Due to the high-pressure system, the fuel lines must be made of metal. Sometimes the fuel filter in a high-pressure fuel injected system is placed in a low-pressure section, and may be connected to rubber hoses with hose clamps, much like in a carbureted system. However, the fuel filter in a high-pressure fuel injected system is usually equipped with a threaded fitting on each end that screws into the fuel lines on either side.
When changing the fuel filter in your car, there are a couple of precautions you need to take. First, in a car with a high-pressure system, you will need to relieve the pressure before disconnecting the fuel lines from the filter. In most cars, this can be accomplished by removing the fuse that controls the fuel pump, and idling the car until it runs out of gas. Another method that works for some cars is to remove the gas cap. Check your shop manual for more specific instructions.
In order to be sure the fuel filter works correctly, you will also need to take care to place the fuel filter so that the flow travels in the right direction. Most fuel filters mark one side as "in" and the other as "out." The inlet should connect to the fuel lines that come from the fuel tank underneath the back of the car, while the outlet should connect to the fuel lines that can be traced to the engine. Sometimes the fuel filter will have a different kind of fitting on each side, so that it can only be installed in one direction.
Because the fuel filter is one of the key components in protecting the engine from hazardous foreign particles, it is important to replace it regularly. Some mechanics recommend replacing the fuel filter every year during the regularly scheduled tune up, but other mechanics disagree. To be on the safe side, you should replace your fuel filter at least once every two years. Your fuel filter may need more frequent attention if you live in a particularly high-pollution area, or if you put more miles on your car in a year than the average person.
Maintenance of the Battery
Even a well-maintained car battery will become depleted over time and eventually lead to hard starting. To save wear on your starter and to keep your vehicle in tip-top shape, changing the car battery will be required every three to five years under normal circumstances. In regions of extreme weather, a battery might need replacement more often. Following these easy steps, you can safely remove the old battery and install the new one.
Removing the old battery:
Many automotive chains that sell car batteries will give a customer credit for an old battery because the core is recyclable. Moreover, it is illegal to throw a car battery in the trash in most states, making it convenient to trade in the old battery when you get a new one. If your automotive retailer does not recycle old batteries, contact the Automobile Association of America (AAA) or check their website for battery recycling information in your area.A car battery is filled with corrosive acid that is potentially explosive and can cause serious injury, easily burning through clothes and skin. Do not expose the battery to flame, sparks, or incendiary devices, including cigarettes. Wear protective eyewear such as clear workman’s goggles and/or a face shield with protective clothing. Do not lean over the battery when performing these steps.
The battery terminals are labeled + (red/positive) and – (black/negative). Disconnect the negative terminal first and flex the cable away from the battery. Next disconnect the positive terminal. Finally disconnect the top clamp that holds the car battery down. Do not lay tools across the top of the battery. A conductive metal might touch both terminals simultaneously causing a short, sparks, or a potential explosion.
A car battery weighs 32 pounds (14.5 kg) or more and should be lifted out of the automobile with extreme care. Do not tip or drop the battery. Many newer batteries are made with a handy strap handle. Battery straps are also available at automotive shops. Alternately, you can lift the car battery straight up and out by holding it at opposite corners.
Clean the battery cables, pan and clamp. If there is corrosion present (white powder), neutralize it with a mixture of baking soda and water using an old toothbrush.
Installing the new car battery:
When purchasing a new car battery, confirm that the negative and positive terminal posts are on the same side of the battery as your old one. Connecting the battery reversed can cause serious damage to your car. For your own safety, purchase a car battery that has had the electrolyte premixed and added by the retailer, and is already partially charged.
Carefully lower the new car battery into place. Make sure it is sitting flat in the battery pan, and not on the lip. Swing the top clamp into place and secure the battery by tightening down the clamp.
Many new batteries come with a protective plastic cap on each terminal post. Remove the positive plastic cap if present, and smear some petroleum jelly on the terminal post. This will help prevent corrosion. Connect the positive cable and tighten it. Repeat this process for the negative cable. (This is the reverse order of disconnecting the battery.) Be sure to remove all tools before closing the hood.
It’s a good idea to drive the car for thirty minutes or more once the new battery is installed. Highway driving is more helpful than stop and go driving. The battery will charge faster if drains are kept at a minimum, such as air conditioning, stereos and unnecessary lights.
Check the water in your battery periodically, more often during hot weather. Use only distilled water to keep the electrolyte fluid at its proper mark. If the vehicle sits unused for long periods of time, purchasing a Battery Minder or Battery Tender is a good idea. Either product will keep the battery fully charged between uses, extending its life
Removing the old battery:
Many automotive chains that sell car batteries will give a customer credit for an old battery because the core is recyclable. Moreover, it is illegal to throw a car battery in the trash in most states, making it convenient to trade in the old battery when you get a new one. If your automotive retailer does not recycle old batteries, contact the Automobile Association of America (AAA) or check their website for battery recycling information in your area.A car battery is filled with corrosive acid that is potentially explosive and can cause serious injury, easily burning through clothes and skin. Do not expose the battery to flame, sparks, or incendiary devices, including cigarettes. Wear protective eyewear such as clear workman’s goggles and/or a face shield with protective clothing. Do not lean over the battery when performing these steps.
The battery terminals are labeled + (red/positive) and – (black/negative). Disconnect the negative terminal first and flex the cable away from the battery. Next disconnect the positive terminal. Finally disconnect the top clamp that holds the car battery down. Do not lay tools across the top of the battery. A conductive metal might touch both terminals simultaneously causing a short, sparks, or a potential explosion.
A car battery weighs 32 pounds (14.5 kg) or more and should be lifted out of the automobile with extreme care. Do not tip or drop the battery. Many newer batteries are made with a handy strap handle. Battery straps are also available at automotive shops. Alternately, you can lift the car battery straight up and out by holding it at opposite corners.
Clean the battery cables, pan and clamp. If there is corrosion present (white powder), neutralize it with a mixture of baking soda and water using an old toothbrush.
Installing the new car battery:
When purchasing a new car battery, confirm that the negative and positive terminal posts are on the same side of the battery as your old one. Connecting the battery reversed can cause serious damage to your car. For your own safety, purchase a car battery that has had the electrolyte premixed and added by the retailer, and is already partially charged.
Carefully lower the new car battery into place. Make sure it is sitting flat in the battery pan, and not on the lip. Swing the top clamp into place and secure the battery by tightening down the clamp.
Many new batteries come with a protective plastic cap on each terminal post. Remove the positive plastic cap if present, and smear some petroleum jelly on the terminal post. This will help prevent corrosion. Connect the positive cable and tighten it. Repeat this process for the negative cable. (This is the reverse order of disconnecting the battery.) Be sure to remove all tools before closing the hood.
It’s a good idea to drive the car for thirty minutes or more once the new battery is installed. Highway driving is more helpful than stop and go driving. The battery will charge faster if drains are kept at a minimum, such as air conditioning, stereos and unnecessary lights.
Check the water in your battery periodically, more often during hot weather. Use only distilled water to keep the electrolyte fluid at its proper mark. If the vehicle sits unused for long periods of time, purchasing a Battery Minder or Battery Tender is a good idea. Either product will keep the battery fully charged between uses, extending its life
Importance of Pressure Plate
The pressure plate is an integral factor in the function of an automobile’s manual transmission. The pressure plate pushes the clutch disc, sometimes called the clutch plate, against the constantly spinning engine flywheel. The clutch disc, therefore, is either stationary or rotating at the same speed as the flywheel. Friction material, similar to that found on brake pads and brake drums, causes the clutch disc to spin at the same speed as the engine flywheel. It is this friction between clutch disc and flywheel that allows the engine torque to drive the wheels.
Pressure plates are, as the name implies, round, metallic devices containing springs and fingers, or levers, and controlled by the release fork connected to the shifter. All of the clutch components are enclosed in the bell housing of the transmission, between the rear of the engine and the front of the gearboxWhen the driver steps on the clutch pedal, a number of springs in the pressure plate are compressed by multiple — most often three — fingers. This compression of the spring(s) pulls the pressure plate and the clutch disc away from the flywheel and thus prevents the clutch disc from rotating. When the clutch disc is stationary, the driver can shift into the proper gear and release the clutch pedal. When the pedal is let up, the fingers in the pressure plate release their grip and the spring(s) expand to push the pressure plate into the clutch disc, thereby engaging the flywheel. This release process is often called the “clamp load”.
There are three major types of pressure plates: (1) The Long style which contains nine coil springs for pressure against the flywheel and three thin fingers for release. The Long style plate is used mainly for drag racing. (2) The Borg & Beck style also contains nine coil springs and three fingers. The fingers are wider, however, and the Borg & Beck has the more robust materials and design necessary for street driving. (3) The diaphragm pressure plate is best suited for street use and is, therefore, the most common type found on later-model automobiles. It contains a single Bellville-style spring that applies a more even load from clutch plate to flywheel. Because the single-spring diaphragm is more effective “over-center”, there is also less effort needed by the driver to hold the clutch pedal in the depressed position at a stop.
Pressure plates are, as the name implies, round, metallic devices containing springs and fingers, or levers, and controlled by the release fork connected to the shifter. All of the clutch components are enclosed in the bell housing of the transmission, between the rear of the engine and the front of the gearboxWhen the driver steps on the clutch pedal, a number of springs in the pressure plate are compressed by multiple — most often three — fingers. This compression of the spring(s) pulls the pressure plate and the clutch disc away from the flywheel and thus prevents the clutch disc from rotating. When the clutch disc is stationary, the driver can shift into the proper gear and release the clutch pedal. When the pedal is let up, the fingers in the pressure plate release their grip and the spring(s) expand to push the pressure plate into the clutch disc, thereby engaging the flywheel. This release process is often called the “clamp load”.
There are three major types of pressure plates: (1) The Long style which contains nine coil springs for pressure against the flywheel and three thin fingers for release. The Long style plate is used mainly for drag racing. (2) The Borg & Beck style also contains nine coil springs and three fingers. The fingers are wider, however, and the Borg & Beck has the more robust materials and design necessary for street driving. (3) The diaphragm pressure plate is best suited for street use and is, therefore, the most common type found on later-model automobiles. It contains a single Bellville-style spring that applies a more even load from clutch plate to flywheel. Because the single-spring diaphragm is more effective “over-center”, there is also less effort needed by the driver to hold the clutch pedal in the depressed position at a stop.
How to repair and Anti-freeze Leak
The one good thing about an antifreeze leak is that it makes itself apparent very quickly. Your temperature gauge soars, warning lights comes on, and sometimes steam pours from beneath the hood of your car, truck, or SUV. When these things occur, pull to the side of the road and stop the car as soon as safely possible. Continuing to operate a vehicle that has lost its coolant can easily lead to the destruction of its engine.
An antifreeze leak can be either external or internal. If you are experiencing an internal leak, something like a bad head gasket or a cracked engine block, it is best to have the vehicle towed to a mechanic. A broken head gasket or cracked engine block may be leaking antifreeze into a cylinder or your oil crankcase. These are not simple repairs, and will often cost well over $1,000 US Dollars (USD).
An external antifreeze leak is easier to diagnose and repair. First, you should determine where the leak is occurring. The most common sources of leakage are the upper or lower radiator hoses, the radiator cap, the radiator overflow reservoir, or within the radiator itself. Leakage can also take place around the water pump, heater core, and intake manifold gasket.
To diagnose and repair an antifreeze leak, first check the radiator cap. If you are very lucky, and cannot spot any other leaks, then the problem may simply be that the cap has been damaged and is unable to contain the pressure of the hot coolant in the radiator. The solution is to buy a new cap. Remember to wait until the car has cooled before removing the old cap, as a facefull of boiling antifreeze is a less than pleasant experience.
Next on the list is a check of the upper and lower radiator hoses and hose clamps. You should easily be able to tell if a hose is cracked or split, as the coolant will either be dripping out or spurting like a fountain. Replacing the upper hose is a relatively quick job. Replacing the lower hose is often a difficult and dirty task. If the hoses appear to be fine, check the clamps.
Like all mechanical parts, hose clamps can weaken and loosen over time, leaving tiny gaps and spaces around intake and outflow openings. Just replace the clamps with new ones. Replacement of the upper hose clamps is a breeze, as they are easily accessible. Again though, due to the cramped engine compartments of virtually all late-model cars, replacement of the lower hose clamps may lead to scraped knuckles and cursing.
The next most common source of an antifreeze leak takes place in the radiator itself. You can try the quick fix, which is to pour in a can of one of the many additives that profess to stop pinhole radiator leaks. Sometimes this will work, and sometimes it won’t. A radiator can be damaged by internal corrosion, flying rocks or debris, and sometimes simply by age itself. In any case, an additive repair is usually a temporary solution, and eventually your radiator will either need to be repaired or replaced by a professional.
The final simple repair for an antifreeze leak lies in your radiator’s plastic overflow reservoir. This reservoir takes in coolant when it becomes too hot. After it has cooled, it is sucked back into the radiator. If there is a hole or crack in the reservoir, you will loose coolant on a regular basis. The choices are either to try and repair the crack or hole with glue, or purchase a new reservoir.
Fixing a leaking water pump, heater core, or intake manifold gasket is more complex. Unless you are a qualified mechanic, they fall into the “don’t try this at home” category. The odds are, unless you are very knowledgeable in automotive repair, you will cause more damage than already exists.
An antifreeze leak can be either external or internal. If you are experiencing an internal leak, something like a bad head gasket or a cracked engine block, it is best to have the vehicle towed to a mechanic. A broken head gasket or cracked engine block may be leaking antifreeze into a cylinder or your oil crankcase. These are not simple repairs, and will often cost well over $1,000 US Dollars (USD).
An external antifreeze leak is easier to diagnose and repair. First, you should determine where the leak is occurring. The most common sources of leakage are the upper or lower radiator hoses, the radiator cap, the radiator overflow reservoir, or within the radiator itself. Leakage can also take place around the water pump, heater core, and intake manifold gasket.
To diagnose and repair an antifreeze leak, first check the radiator cap. If you are very lucky, and cannot spot any other leaks, then the problem may simply be that the cap has been damaged and is unable to contain the pressure of the hot coolant in the radiator. The solution is to buy a new cap. Remember to wait until the car has cooled before removing the old cap, as a facefull of boiling antifreeze is a less than pleasant experience.
Next on the list is a check of the upper and lower radiator hoses and hose clamps. You should easily be able to tell if a hose is cracked or split, as the coolant will either be dripping out or spurting like a fountain. Replacing the upper hose is a relatively quick job. Replacing the lower hose is often a difficult and dirty task. If the hoses appear to be fine, check the clamps.
Like all mechanical parts, hose clamps can weaken and loosen over time, leaving tiny gaps and spaces around intake and outflow openings. Just replace the clamps with new ones. Replacement of the upper hose clamps is a breeze, as they are easily accessible. Again though, due to the cramped engine compartments of virtually all late-model cars, replacement of the lower hose clamps may lead to scraped knuckles and cursing.
The next most common source of an antifreeze leak takes place in the radiator itself. You can try the quick fix, which is to pour in a can of one of the many additives that profess to stop pinhole radiator leaks. Sometimes this will work, and sometimes it won’t. A radiator can be damaged by internal corrosion, flying rocks or debris, and sometimes simply by age itself. In any case, an additive repair is usually a temporary solution, and eventually your radiator will either need to be repaired or replaced by a professional.
The final simple repair for an antifreeze leak lies in your radiator’s plastic overflow reservoir. This reservoir takes in coolant when it becomes too hot. After it has cooled, it is sucked back into the radiator. If there is a hole or crack in the reservoir, you will loose coolant on a regular basis. The choices are either to try and repair the crack or hole with glue, or purchase a new reservoir.
Fixing a leaking water pump, heater core, or intake manifold gasket is more complex. Unless you are a qualified mechanic, they fall into the “don’t try this at home” category. The odds are, unless you are very knowledgeable in automotive repair, you will cause more damage than already exists.
Importance of Cylinder Block
The engine block is the linchpin of vehicles which run on internal combustion, providing the powerhouse for the vehicle. The engine block is termed a block because it is usually a solid cast car part, housing the cylinders and their components inside a cooled and lubricated crankcase. The engine block is designed to be extremely strong and sturdy, because failure of the engine block results in failure of the car, which will not function until the engine block is replaced or repaired.
The engine block is typically made of cast iron, although in the late 1990s engine blocks made from plastic and other experimental materials were being used in prototype cars with the hope of developing more lightweight, efficient vehicles. A cast iron engine block can comprise a substantial portion of the weight of the car, and usually requires multiple people to be removed and worked on safely.
Working from the outside in, the engine block starts with a solid metal outside, designed to seal everything inside. A number of channels and passages inside comprise the cooling jacket, and are designed to deliver water from the radiator to all the hot sections of the engine, preventing overheating. After the water is circulated in the engine, it returns to the radiator to be cooled by the fan and sent back through the engine.
The core of the engine block is the cylinders, capped by the cylinder head. The number of cylinders determines the size and placement of the engine block, with most cars having between four and eight cylinders. These cylinders house pistons, which provide motive energy for the vehicle through a series of controlled explosions inside the cylinders which push the pistons out, moving the crankshaft of the vehicle.
Attached to the bottom of the engine block is the oil pan, which seals in the lubricating oil for the engine. Periodically the oil for the car must be changed, and the oil pan is drained and refilled to remove the older oil, which has lost viscosity and picked up impurities.
The engine block is the collective term which refers to the crankcase and all the components which fill it, including gaskets, valves, and seals. Because of the importance of the engine block in the functioning of the car, it is recommended that drivers perform regular maintenance on their vehicles to prevent damage to internal parts which can be caused by overheating, insufficient oil, and other easily preventable situations.
The engine block becomes extremely hot during normal operations, and drivers should be cautious about touching it until it has cooled sufficiently. Some enterprising drivers and aspiring chefs have also experimented with cooking foods such as baked potatoes on the engine block, although this is not generally recommended because should the food may become dislodged during cooking, potentially causing damage to the engine.
The engine block is typically made of cast iron, although in the late 1990s engine blocks made from plastic and other experimental materials were being used in prototype cars with the hope of developing more lightweight, efficient vehicles. A cast iron engine block can comprise a substantial portion of the weight of the car, and usually requires multiple people to be removed and worked on safely.
Working from the outside in, the engine block starts with a solid metal outside, designed to seal everything inside. A number of channels and passages inside comprise the cooling jacket, and are designed to deliver water from the radiator to all the hot sections of the engine, preventing overheating. After the water is circulated in the engine, it returns to the radiator to be cooled by the fan and sent back through the engine.
The core of the engine block is the cylinders, capped by the cylinder head. The number of cylinders determines the size and placement of the engine block, with most cars having between four and eight cylinders. These cylinders house pistons, which provide motive energy for the vehicle through a series of controlled explosions inside the cylinders which push the pistons out, moving the crankshaft of the vehicle.
Attached to the bottom of the engine block is the oil pan, which seals in the lubricating oil for the engine. Periodically the oil for the car must be changed, and the oil pan is drained and refilled to remove the older oil, which has lost viscosity and picked up impurities.
The engine block is the collective term which refers to the crankcase and all the components which fill it, including gaskets, valves, and seals. Because of the importance of the engine block in the functioning of the car, it is recommended that drivers perform regular maintenance on their vehicles to prevent damage to internal parts which can be caused by overheating, insufficient oil, and other easily preventable situations.
The engine block becomes extremely hot during normal operations, and drivers should be cautious about touching it until it has cooled sufficiently. Some enterprising drivers and aspiring chefs have also experimented with cooking foods such as baked potatoes on the engine block, although this is not generally recommended because should the food may become dislodged during cooking, potentially causing damage to the engine.
Familiarize Six Cylinder and Four Cylinder
In a four-stroke engine, a series of movements causes fuel to be converted into forward motion. All else being equal, the difference between a 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engine is that the latter produces more power. This is due to the two extra cylinders that create additional piston thrust.
In a basic engine design, pistons travel down cylinder sleeves or chambers, allowing intake valves to open. Intake valves let fuel and air enter the cylinders, while rising pistons compress these gasses. Spark plugs ignite the compressed gas, causing explosions that drive the pistons back down.
The next rise of the pistons coincides with exhaust valves opening to clear the chambers. The timing of the pistons is staggered so that one pair rises while another falls. Pistons are connected to rocker arms, which turn a crankshaft; the crankshaft turns the wheels, thereby converting fuel into motion.In a 4-cylinder engine, there are four pistons rising and falling in four chambers. A 6-cylinder engine features six pistons and produces a theoretical 50% more power than the same 4-cylinder engine. While a 4-cylinder engine might hesitate when you press on the gas, a 6-cylinder will tend to be more responsive, with greater get-up-and-go. The 4-cylinder engine is standard in smaller cars, as the relatively light weight of the vehicle makes it an economical choice with plenty of power for average motoring needs. Many models include a 6-cylinder engine upgrade option. The 6-cylinder engine is standard on passenger cars, vans, small trucks and small to midsize sports utility vehicles (SUVs). Some of these models may also offer alternate engine designs as options. Standard trucks and larger SUVs commonly feature an 8-cylinder engine. These heavier vehicles are used for towing and carrying substantial weight.Though more cylinders equal more power when comparing the same engine models, there are exceptions when comparing different engines. Improved engine designs over the years have resulted in substantial gains. This has made 4-cylinder engines more powerful than they were a decade ago, and 8-cylinder engines more fuel-efficient than they once were. In short, a 6-cylinder engine from 1993 that’s still running strong might nevertheless have less power than a recently designed 4-cylinder engine. In addition, a new 8-cylinder engine might get better gas mileage than the older 6-cylinder engine. If deciding between a 4 and 6-cylinder engine on a new vehicle, there are a few considerations. The smaller engine will be less expensive and should get slightly better gas mileage. The disadvantage is a lack of power that might factor in more for commuters and travelers. For hilly or mountainous areas, the 6-cylinder engine would likely be a better choice. If interested in towing substantial weight, such as a powerboat or house trailer, consider an 8-cylinder motor. Note that not all 4-cylinder engines are created equal. Differing technologies can make one engine feel gutless and another peppy. Differences also exist in larger engines of differing designs. The only way to tell if a particular engine will suit your needs is to give it a fair test drive.
In a basic engine design, pistons travel down cylinder sleeves or chambers, allowing intake valves to open. Intake valves let fuel and air enter the cylinders, while rising pistons compress these gasses. Spark plugs ignite the compressed gas, causing explosions that drive the pistons back down.
The next rise of the pistons coincides with exhaust valves opening to clear the chambers. The timing of the pistons is staggered so that one pair rises while another falls. Pistons are connected to rocker arms, which turn a crankshaft; the crankshaft turns the wheels, thereby converting fuel into motion.In a 4-cylinder engine, there are four pistons rising and falling in four chambers. A 6-cylinder engine features six pistons and produces a theoretical 50% more power than the same 4-cylinder engine. While a 4-cylinder engine might hesitate when you press on the gas, a 6-cylinder will tend to be more responsive, with greater get-up-and-go. The 4-cylinder engine is standard in smaller cars, as the relatively light weight of the vehicle makes it an economical choice with plenty of power for average motoring needs. Many models include a 6-cylinder engine upgrade option. The 6-cylinder engine is standard on passenger cars, vans, small trucks and small to midsize sports utility vehicles (SUVs). Some of these models may also offer alternate engine designs as options. Standard trucks and larger SUVs commonly feature an 8-cylinder engine. These heavier vehicles are used for towing and carrying substantial weight.Though more cylinders equal more power when comparing the same engine models, there are exceptions when comparing different engines. Improved engine designs over the years have resulted in substantial gains. This has made 4-cylinder engines more powerful than they were a decade ago, and 8-cylinder engines more fuel-efficient than they once were. In short, a 6-cylinder engine from 1993 that’s still running strong might nevertheless have less power than a recently designed 4-cylinder engine. In addition, a new 8-cylinder engine might get better gas mileage than the older 6-cylinder engine. If deciding between a 4 and 6-cylinder engine on a new vehicle, there are a few considerations. The smaller engine will be less expensive and should get slightly better gas mileage. The disadvantage is a lack of power that might factor in more for commuters and travelers. For hilly or mountainous areas, the 6-cylinder engine would likely be a better choice. If interested in towing substantial weight, such as a powerboat or house trailer, consider an 8-cylinder motor. Note that not all 4-cylinder engines are created equal. Differing technologies can make one engine feel gutless and another peppy. Differences also exist in larger engines of differing designs. The only way to tell if a particular engine will suit your needs is to give it a fair test drive.
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